Image Quality and Size is one of the photography basics. Image Quality depends on the file format and compression ratio used while saving photographs. File format includes JPEG and RAW. For beginners, saving photos in JPEG is recommended.
RAW format captures all image data recorded by the camera sensor without processing it, hence the file size is heavy compared to JPEG. RAW is mostly used by experienced photographers since the images are unprocessed and have to be processed later in software like Lightroom. JPEG is a compressed version of RAW; due to compression, some of the image data may be lost.
Image Size is measured in pixels which are tiny buckets in the camera sensor that collect and record light information. These pixels help record various colours and tones from a photographed scene. All the small pixels of different colours form the whole image. One megapixel is made of one million pixels. Image Size determines the physical dimensions of the photo.
In some DSLR cameras, JPEG images can be saved using Basic, Normal and Fine options; the size of the images increase respectively. However, these settings will vary depending on the DSLR camera you are using.
Image Quality and Size Settings (available on a Canon DSLR Camera)
You can save a Large-size High-Quality JPEG image for A2-size prints, Large-size Standard JPEG image for A2-size prints, Medium-size High-Quality JPEG image for A3-size prints, Medium-size Standard JPEG image for A3-size prints, Small-size High-Quality JPEG image for A4-size prints, Small-size Standard JPEG image for A4-size prints, Small-size JPEG images for emailing, RAW+JPEG which saves both RAW & JPEG versions of an image and RAW images which can be edited later in Lightroom software.
We bring you ‘Jo & His Camera’ Comic Strips wherein a Magical Camera gives DSLR photography tutorials to Jo.
To understand Image Quality and Size, Click on the below Image to see the Comic wherein the Camera explains Jo, the concept of Image Quality and Size with the help of practical examples.
Many a times, it happens that the images you have clicked appear blue, red, orange or yellow. But, when you were photographing it, the images looked different. Well, this is because – when you click a photo, the subject is lit by light sources like incandescent bulbs, sunlight, fluorescent light and so on. These light sources have their own colour temperature which they cast on the image of your photo.
For example – incandescent bulbs add a reddish/ warm shade to the image while fluorescent lighting adds a blue/cool shade to the image.
White balance is a setting in the DSLR Camera which adjusts these colour casts so that the objects that looked white to you while photographing, appear white in the photograph and not red or blue; in short – the resulting images look natural.
Wondering how to decide on White Balance settings? Here’s how.
Auto White Balance (AWB): Based on lighting, this mode will adjust the photograph for natural colours. But sometimes, this auto mode may not give you the desired image. So, go ahead and use the below settings that suit the environment in which you are clicking pictures.
White Fluorescent Light: Use this setting while photographing under white fluorescent light. This mode warms up the colour temperature in images and compensates for the cool shade of fluorescent light.
Shade: Use this setting while capturing images in shade so that it warms up the colour temperature in images.
Daylight: Use this setting for clicking outdoor scenes under clear skies.
Tungsten Light: Use this setting while photographing indoor scenes under incandescent light (bulb/lamp). This mode cools down the colour temperature in images and compensates for the warm shade of tungsten light.
Cloudy: Use this setting while capturing images on cloudy days or during sunset, so that it warms up the colour temperature in images.
Flash: Use this setting for photographing dimly-lit scenes.
We bring you ‘Jo & His Camera’ Comic Strips wherein a Magical Camera gives DSLR photography tutorials to Jo.
To understand White Balance, Click on the Image below to see the Comic wherein the Camera explains Jo, the concept of White Balance with the help of practical examples.
A sharp image is said to be in-focus. How do you do that? Well, you will see 2 options: Autofocus (AF) and Manual Focus (MF) on your DSLR Camera.
Autofocus (AF)
If you select Autofocus (AF), the area of the frame that the DSLR will use for autofocus is shown by focus points in the viewfinder, when you’re photographing a scene/subject. (Out of all the focus points, the active focus points will flash in red)
If you want to select a single focus point, press the + button on your DSLR, then turn the wheel to select your single focus point. (Refer the above image of a Canon 1500D DSLR)
(If your subject lies in the center of the frame – select the center focus point; if your subject lies on the left of the frame – select the left focus point and so on).
In the below image, the center focus point is selected.
Once you’ve selected your focus point (say for instance, the focus point selected is center focus point since your subject lies in the center of the frame) – when you look into the viewfinder, you’ll see the center focus point flashing in red. That means, only the center focus point is active, rest all focus points are inactive. Now, halfway press the shutter button to lock the focus and then take the shot.
You can also enable & set the Live View Shoot Mode to select your Focus point and capture the photograph.
Manual Focus (MF)/ How to lock Manual Focus
To set Manual Focus – shift the button from AF to MF. Move the Focus Ring manually till your subject appears sharp in the viewfinder. Once you get that, halfway press the shutter button to lock the focus and then take the shot.
When to use Manual Focus
While photographing in dimly lit/ low light scenes (subjects in low light), your camera will struggle in AF mode. Each time, you try to take the shot, the lens will turn from one end of its focusing options to the other and back again before deciding on where to focus. Hence, Manual Focus is recommended for dimly lit scenes wherein you can set the focus using the focus ring to get a sharp image.
In astrophotography and cases where the camera’s AF mode cannot find sufficient contrast in the scene (low-contrast subjects) to set the focus point, manual focus is recommended.
Other conditions where camera’s AF mode finds it difficult to set the focus point:
Subjects with repetitive patterns
Photographing under a light source whose brightness, color, or pattern keeps changing
Night scenes
Very small/tiny subjects; click here to read the blog on macro photography which means photographing sharp, close-up pictures of small subjects (insects, flowers or inanimate objects) with macro lens to bring out their fine details
Backlit subjects
Subjects that keep moving within the AF point and can’t keep still due to subject blur or camera shake
Subject moving away or approaching the camera
When soft focus lens is used
Autofocus (AF) Settings (available on a Canon DSLR Camera)
One Shot AF: Ideal for focusing on still subjects.
AI Servo: Ideal for focusing on moving subjects.
AI Focus: If you use this setting and focus on a subject; when the subject moves, auto switches from One Shot AF to AI Servo.
In case of portrait photography, always remember to focus on the eyes of the subject and the captured image will be a sharp one.
For landscape photography, we recommend – you use a higher f-number (set a small aperture f11, f16 or f22 to create a Deep Depth of Field so that all the objects/subjects (humans, animals, rocks) in the foreground and background of the scene appear sharp (the entire scene is in focus and appears sharp).
To read the blog on What is Bokeh and Depth of Field (Deep Depth of Field, Shallow Depth of Field), click here
In the below pics, Aperture of f/4 was used to create Shallow Depth of Field & Focus point was changed in every pic.
In this 1st pic, focus was set on the man; hence all others are out of focus & appear blur
In this 2nd pic, focus was set on the woman in the centre
In this 3rd pic, focus was set on the first woman who is welcoming them with flowers
We bring you ‘Jo & His Camera’ Comic Strips wherein a Magical Camera gives DSLR photography tutorials to Jo.
To understand Focus, Click on the Image below to see the Comic wherein the Camera explains Jo, the concept of Focus with the help of practical examples.
When you do photography: Remember the 5E’s – Explore, Experiment, Experience, Enjoy & Express to develop your own style as a photographer.
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To illuminate a dark scene – flash, one of the photography basics, is used which produces artificial light; you can use your DSLR camera’s Built-in-Flash or attach an External Flash.
Flash is used in Wedding Photography, Fashion Photography, Portrait Photography, Night Time Photography and Macro Photography.
When outdoors – if the subject, you are photographing is backlit or poorly lit, you can use flash to illuminate the details of backlit subjects and shadow areas.
If you are photographing in poorly lit indoors, use of slow shutter speedmay result in a blur photo due to camera shake. Alternatively, if you use highISO to brighten the photo, the image created may be grainy/noisy. Hence, use of flash is recommended here for a good photograph without the image being blur or grainy.
We bring you ‘Jo & His Camera’ Comic Strips wherein a Magical Camera gives DSLR photography tutorials to Jo.
To understand Flash, Click on the Image below to see the Comic wherein the Camera explains Jo, the concept of Flash with the help of practical examples.
ISO, Aperture and Shutter Speed form the Exposure Triangle which plays a vital role in creating the desired photograph.
ISO sensitivity is a measure of the camera’s potential to capture light. One of the photography basics, ISO helps to darken or brighten an image.
It is displayed as ISO 100, ISO 200, ISO 400, ISO 800, ISO 1600, ISO 3200 and ISO 6400. As you increase the ISO number, the brightness of your images will also increase and vice versa. However, the highest and lowest ISO number will vary depending on the DSLR camera you are using.
But, remember – using a very high ISO can affect the quality of the photograph; the resulting image can be grainy/noisy. Most of the photographers set ISO at 100 (standard ISO) to create great pictures with little to no noise. Although, latest DSLR cameras allow very little noise even at a higher ISO number.
We bring you ‘Jo & His Camera’ Comic Strips wherein a Magical Camera gives DSLR photography tutorials to Jo.
To understand ISO, Click on the Image below to see the Comic wherein the Camera explains Jo, the concept of ISO.
Wondering how to decide on the ISO settings? Here’s how.
ISO 100/ ISO 200: Under clear skies and bright day.
ISO 400: Under cloudy skies and for bright indoor scenes.
ISO 800: Early evening and for dimly lit scenes.
ISO 1600: Outdoor scenes at night and for dark indoor scenes.
ISO 3200/ ISO 6400: For photographing city streets at night.
For example, in case of Bird Photography – if you are using a faster shutter speed of 1/1000 sec (to freeze the movement) and a smaller aperture f/9, then less light will enter the camera’s sensor; so, to balance the exposure – you will have to increase the ISO from 100 to 400.
In case of Moon photography, if you are using very slow shutter speed to capture the image, then a tripod is recommended to avoid camera shake. But, if you aren’t carrying a tripod, and if you are using a faster shutter speed of say 1/400 sec and a smaller aperture f/11, then less light will enter the camera’s sensor; so, for correct exposure – you will have to increase the ISO to 400 or above.
When you do photography: Remember the 5E’s – Explore, Experiment, Experience, Enjoy & Express.
Do Share The Learning – Like It, Post It, Pin It, Tweet It!
